STANCOR 10P PROJECT UPDATE 2

     The chassis is stripped down about as far as it's going to be.  I still need to clean it up a little more, add some more pre-tinned ground spots and replace the user-installed octal crystal socket with an original-style five-pin.*

     Front panel is off, the label plate has been polished and straightened and I'm pondering what to do about the panel itself.

     You can see the original gloss and color where it was protected.  A clear-coat overspray would probably bring the exposed portion to a close match to original -- but it's likely a careful application of furniture polish would, too, and the polish is a lot easier to remove (as long as it contains no silicone).

     Here we have the parts sorted out in yes, an egg carton (and a tuna tin!).

     Mostly new, some salvage.  The RF choke, variable capacitor and filter choke go back in; the jacks almost certainly; the" Standby" switch, maybe; the potentiometer and power switch will be replaced.  I haven't picked up a fuseholder yet.

     Current worry, the blobs of wax where the primary leads emerge from the power transformer windings.  This could either be from the installation of the (now removed) brute-force line filter, or it could be indicative of problems despite ohmmeter readings that look okay.  Can't tell until the power is applied, and I'll be doing that with a light bulb in series -- a smallish one.  If the bulb lights up brightly, back to the drawing board.  Or checkbook.
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* There's no reason to do this in order to use "modern" post-WW II crystals -- the distance between the grid and plate or cathode pins of a five-prong tube socket matches the spacing of an FT-243 crystal well enough.  The old "doorknob" crystal pins were spaced for cathode and grid; so you wire K or P to G, and you have a dual-purpose socket.  Stancor did use "empty" socket terminals for tie points and perhaps that was the reason for the mod.